By Edward M. Bury, APR, MA (aka The PRDude
Would you believe that the formidable structure in the background is a department store? Much of Copenhagen remains a visual delight for those who can appreciate historic architecture, even on a cloudy afternoon.
How often have you arrived at a new destination, somewhat jet lagged after flying for nine or so hours, only to find a phalanx of marathon runners serving as a barrier between you and much needed sleep at your hotel?
Well, that's what happened to Susan and I earlier this month upon arrival in Copenhagen, the bustling capital of Denmark and a city established more than 800 years ago. After riding the ultra-modern, inexpensive, and highly efficient Metro to the Kogens Nytorv station, we encountered dozens of people cheering on runners as they made their way along the south end of the historic cobblestone square.
What to do?
Eventually, we scurried across the thoroughfare, dragged our suitcases through the square, and checked into the way-cool boutique SKT Annea Hotel, our home base for the next seven nights. What follows is a recap of some key activities and observations during our time exploring greater Copenhagen on foot and by rail.
A Truly World Class City: Prior to our visit, I learned that Copenhagen was one of the priciest cities in Europe. We found this to be somewhat true, but then, there was tremendous value in virtually all of our activities -- from taking in an afternoon at the historic Tivoli Gardens, to a scrumptious meal at a French bistro, to strolling the boulevards and streets lined with very well-preserved and maintained classic buildings. Yes, a Tuborg Classic draft beer at a hotel bar could cost more than 50 kroner (around 8 US dollars), but it would be served in a stemmed glass by a server dressed in black and white attire in a venue that reflected true culture and style. Just about every street revealed another amazing row of low-rise historic buildings, many with small shops selling everything from jewelry and clothing to antique toys. Parks were places of calm and serenity and could have served as the backdrop for an Impressionist painting; and, most parks contained one or more remarkable bronze statue. In short, our time in Copenhagen may have cost a little more than other cities, but the experience was worth every kroner.
Perhaps the Most "European" City on the Continent: On previous visits to European cities, we encountered people and visited places that clearly met the criteria for being, well, "European." I'm referring to men and women who wear scarves as an accompaniment to well-tailored attire, enjoy the simple act of strolling along a boulevard, and frequently engage in spirited conversation, often punctuated with laughter. We observed this everywhere in Copenhagen, especially when walking along Nyhavn, the canal lined with colorful rowhouses that now contain restaurants with seating that spills out onto the lane. During our visit in early May, the weather was at times cool; that didn't stop diners from enjoying meals outside, especially since restaurants provided heat lamps and blankets. While out on foot, fellow pedestrians obeyed red light signals at crosswalks, and cyclists -- and there were many! -- stayed in their lanes. In summary, one knows that he or she is, indeed, in Europe when visiting Copenhagen.
Historic and Modern Melded Into One: This coastal metropolis is relatively flat, making it easy to navigate on foot or bicycle and appreciate the streetscape and urban design. Unlike in many U.S. cities (including my home city of Chicago), old structures in Copenhagen more than likely will get restored rather than razed, thereby preserving the city's history and character. This was especially true in the city center neighborhoods like Indre By and Frederiksstaden, where some apartment buildings were converted to condos, the facades preserved and restored. But the city is not resting on its architectural and historical laurels. This is evidenced by the 20-year-old ultra modern Copenhagen Opera House, which commands a dominant place along the waterfront.
Yes, Copenhagen Draws a Crowd: Early during our visit, we the took hop-on, off-bus on a route that passed by many of the city's most renowned destinations, like the Little Mermaid statue and Tivoli Gardens. While there were a sizeable number of other visitors and locals about, we enjoyed a relatively uncrowded adventure. By the weekend, we observed the double-decker red tour bus was packed and one could ascertain the popular bronze statue was visited by hoards of people seeking photos. The same could be noted for the restaurants in Nyhavn, where there was a more boisterous atmosphere than earlier in the week, yet one that was absent of any concern for our safety. From this perspective, yes people come to Copenhagen to take in the charm, eat, drink, and enjoy themselves. But not once did we feel afraid or threatened.
Below are a few images from our wonderful trip. Watch for the "travelogue" follow up post with more pictures.
The Copenhagen Opera House, located across the channel from where we stayed, is an example of how to meld the modern into an historic urban environment.
One doesn't have to stray too far to find water when touring Copenhagen. Pleasure craft and live-aboard boats share this channel.
Diners at the excellent French bistro we visited along the north end of the Kogens Nytorv square. Our excellent dinner was embellished by this view.
Didn't get a shot of Little Mermaid while taking the hop on/hop off bus tour as I found this statue and monument to be a bit more interesting -- and much less in demand for photo ops.
Evening looking west along Sankt Annæ Place, a tranquil thoroughfare that includes a midway where people relax, drink, talk, smoke, and play bocce ball.
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