handmaidsdistaff posted: "It is a common saying in the UK, that there is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing. Personally, I would be more inclined to say that bad weather is the weather for which the appropriate clothing is difficult or uncomfortable! Anywa" Handmaid's Distaff Read on blog or reader Layering for the English Winter Weather handmaidsdistaff Jan 21 It is a common saying in the UK, that there is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing. Personally, I would be more inclined to say that bad weather is the weather for which the appropriate clothing is difficult or uncomfortable! Anyway, having seen the difficulties of this for anyone who is used to difficult weather being too hot rather than too cold, and in these days of ever more expensive heating, I thought a run-through of the layers I wear in lower temperatures might be worthwhile.  I was "to the [English weather] born" 😛 but I am nevertheless comparatively cold sensitive. Feet: Lightweight cotton socks: - Slightly thicker cotton socks: If it's very cold, a pair of woollen (i.e. actual sheep's wool) or electric heated socks is good instead of (or even over) this thicker cotton pair. - Slippers: These sock slippers are good in many ways - including that it is possible to put a pair of sandals straight over them if you want to take the rubbish out or some such.  Having said which, they are liable to pick up every fragment of stuff as if it was a burr: the birds' discarded seed hulls, the bits of thread from dressmaking, fragments of firewood: they aren't really suitable to environments that contain a lot of hooverable mess. - Legs Thermal leggings: A pair of tight fitting, stretchy leggings - chiefly composed of acrylic and viscose.  It would be possible to wear a pair of thick tights under. - Warm joggers: A slightly looser, but still stretchy, pair of leggings/trousers.   Mostly acrylic and viscose. - Winter skirt/dress/trousers In general, I wear a winter dress (homemade) over everything.  However, I do have a purchased woollen skirt -a  tartan pattern.  I have little experience trying to wear trousers as an outer layer - the only comment I can make is that you may want to go up a size for comfort and elegance, as the underlayers, while comparatively compact, do take up some  of the normal wearing ease of the outer garments. Top: I keep meaning to acquire some sleeveless vests to wear.  However, if you don't have too much trouble with garments binding under your arms, any ordinary but close fitting summer t-shirt will do (all inner layers should be close fitting, partly because it is cosier, partly because if they aren't smaller than the outer layers, movement becomes impossible). Long sleeved top: A plain top; pure cotton I think. - Thermal top - turtle-necked and long sleeved: This is actually the pair to the thermal leggings.  I appreciate the soft collar neck for both warmth and modesty, but it might not be fully hidden under an office-type blouse. - Lightweight wool jumpers (pair of): Yes, I do wear jumpers under my dress, and yes, those particular jumpers have pretty much had it.  I got these in a charity shop about ten years ago, and they would be expensive to replace new, though I may find myself resorting to that in the near future.  The suitable type of jumper for an underlayer is a very low gauge knit - not much larger thread than would be used for a t-shirt - though a single, plain, Double Knit or Aran weight jumper, would probably also work (if you can get actual wool or a high wool blend on offer, knitting your own is still cheaper than buying new for the quality).  When in decent wear, this type of jumper works as an outer layer.  Under the dress is a good way of getting every inch of wear out of them possible. However, though wearing light-weight jumpers under the first outer layer that is meant to be seen (blouse/other top/dress) has a lot of advantages, I don't recommend it if you spend part of the day in a genuinely well-heated public room (see "getting too hot" below).  In that case it may work better to keep jumpers for layers you can take off in public. - Winter dress: This is in fact a dress I made of synthetic fabric, though I prefer wool or high wool blends, which are warmer.  The skirt is ankle length.  This isn't a particularly conventional garment though it passes in smart casual (or did when it was in better wear).  More or less anything can potentially go over the underlayers to cover them. A thicker, more elaborate jumper, such as a cable knit, could be added at this point. - Heated or other warm sleeveless jacket: For those who have less issue with sleeves binding, a long-sleeved "undercoat" might be better (I have broader shoulders, and sleeves never really quite fit).  This is an electric-heated jacket, on the same principle as the electric blanket, which runs off a sort of large-phone power pack battery.  Works, with limitations. I would expect the technology to improve over the next few years; at present, I am not sure whether to recommend it as totally amazing - loads of heat for such a light layer - or to say that I don't recommend it as rather awkward and unreliable. Any further warm layer is worth something here, be it a thick cable knit or a fleece.  A hood is worth having on this layer, where acceptable. - Down coat: This is a skiing coat, marketed as extreme, and it (and the light blue waterproof skiing coat shown below) are by far the most expensive articles involved here - though the down coat is still very good value when considered against the wear I have got from it.  It is more than five years old; it is frequently worn most of the day and then put back on over my pyjamas, and it is showing no signs of giving up, though the elastic could do with replacing. The clothes described so far are what I wear to sit indoors when it is particularly cold.  I do wear coats indoors a lot: I'm a correspondence student so I don't have to worry about what anyone else thinks!  Down is amazing because it is both lightweight and extremely warm.  However, I have also had long woollen coats, which are not so warm but may work better in more formal situations. When it is a bit warmer, I don't sit in the coats, just in the dress and underlayers.  When particularly cold, I'll also wrap myself in a fleece throw or knitted blanket to sit. Head: A lot of body heat is lost through the head. Hat: I don't in fact usually wear a hat indoors during the day, as I usually already have two hoods from the coats on top of the mantilla I generally wear.  This one is worn mostly for sleeping.  But it works fine as either an alternative to hoods, or as an extra.  Acrylic, crocheted.  If you can stand wool next to the skin, it is a bit warmer. Outdoors in freezing temperatures, I wear this hat-scarf combo, also acrylic, which goes over the head and around the neck: Then the hoods go up over it - all three (the third is the waterproof, which I haven't got to yet). To make one of these, measure your head, choose some wool (I mostly use a pure acrylic chunky), and work out how many stitches you'll need to go around your head against the tension stated on the ball band.  Then use a shorter circular needle of the correct size, cast on said number, and knit until the scarf is long enough to give you as many wraps as you want.  I usually reckon to do it with 300g yarn.  As you can see, the one I am wearing was expanded slightly between the scarf and the hat section, but unfortunately I did it as I went and did not write down exactly what I did - it is simply a matter of expanding a few stitches evenly over a couple of rows if in fact the first end seems too narrow for comfortable wear on the head. All the other head layers I wear are the hoods from the coats.  I like this way of doing things because it gives a lot of temperature control without taking layers off: the hoods just go up and down. Hands: Handwarmers: Pattern adapted from this children's handwarmer pattern: details available on request. They are better than fingerless gloves for typing, and I rarely wear another layer on my hands indoors. Waterproofing: To stay warm it matters to stay dry, and it rains a lot.  Through January and February, it will typically either be raining or frozen.  Having said, whether you need serious waterproofing does depend on whether or not you expect to be out in rain.  Truly heavy rain - the storm-style downpour - does not usually last that long, but whole days of continuous moderate rain are not unusual in some areas (the East of England is noticeably drier than the West, being in its rain shadow for all the Atlantic weather). Incidentally, some fabrics are less inclined to make the wearer cold when worn wet than others.  Cotton gets cold very fast when wet (linen and viscose presumably do as well, though I am less clear about that).  Wool is warm until it is literally soaking - it has an extraordinary capacity to absorb water.  I believe most of the real synthetics are okay wet, but I am much less clear.  People talk about, "synthetics" as if they were all the same, but the various synthetic fabrics actually seem to vary quite widely in their real properties.  Acrylic does not take up water at all: it is literally possible to go swimming in an acrylic jumper, squeeze it out, and put it back on. However, trying to keep warm layers dry is seriously worthwhile regardless of what they are made from. Look for a reputable brand: it is surprising how much is sold as waterproof which truly isn't.  Hiking and camping supplies are your friend here. - Waterproof coat: Actually, two waterproof coats.  The blue one is a warm and waterproof skiing coat, synthetic rather than down; another warm layer, but again, expensive.  The other is a waterproof shell which is suitable for summer wear as well.  One of these goes over my down coat when it is raining; the warm one sometimes goes on for warmth when it isn't.  If you have the opportunity, look for one with a hood that fully covers any hoods/hats you would wear under it. If you aren't tall, a long coat that covers all your garments and sheds water onto the ground may be possible.  I am about 5'11" and long coats are never long enough for me: they always shed the water uncomfortably onto my skirt.  Therefore I usually also wear a waterproof skirt... Waterproof skirt/kilt: I brought this from a shooting supplies shop - it can be worn over a skirt or trousers.  These kilts are unisex and advertised as easier to take on and off in wet woods than a pair of waterproof trousers.  If you do always wear trousers, a pair of waterproof trousers may be better, but it is true that they are much more awkward to get on and off over shoes.  Mine also gets a lot of use as a gardening apron, hence the mud. - Waterproof socks: [Due to not having been out in weather such as to need them recently, I could not lay my hands on them instantly for a photograph.  Strange times.  In my (pre-lockdown) church-going days I used to wear them almost daily.  They look like a normal pair of hiking socks]. Mine are slightly annoying in being rather narrow, and therefore uncomfortable to wear over too many other pairs of socks.  But they do work.  Alternatively, waterproof shoes may be an option.  Socks can, however, be hidden more easily. Waterproof gloves: I had the most annoying time finding a pair of gloves that actually was waterproof.  Skiing and cycling gloves where advertised as waterproof without even being water repellent: they were soaked through and worse than useless after an hour.  These are actually a pair of waterproof gardening gloves from a garden centre.  And they are truly waterproof.  They will go over the handwarmers, though in this case I usually wear one or the other. Night-time: staying warm while asleep: I have an electric blanket and three duvets, two doubles and one single.  When the temperature in the room is under 10-12C, I generally wear a pair of cotton socks, a pair of thermal leggings under my pyjamas, pyjamas with long sleeves and legs, a hat, a cotton hoodie over the pyjamas, and my down coat over all that.  It works.  The socks may be less necessary if you are not tall and duvets stay over your feet at all times without effort!  Having said, warmth for the head and the feet seem to be the most important things. Summary: The list of clothing without photographs or details: Feet: Cotton socks.  Thicker cotton socks and/or electric or woollen socks.  Slippers. Legs: Thermal leggings.  Thermal joggers.  Skirt of winter dress or other skirt/trousers. Top: Sleeveless vest or ordinary t-shirt.  Thermal top with high collar.  Two lightweight woollen jumpers.  Winter dress.  Heated Gillette or other layer.  Down coat. Waterproofing: Waterproof coat with hood.  Waterproof skirt (or trousers).  Waterproof socks.  Waterproof gloves. Night: Electric Blanket.  Three duvets.  Cotton socks.  Thermal leggings.  Long legged and sleeved pyjamas.  Hat.  Hoodie.  Down coat. Random factors to take into account: Laundry can be complicated: In my experience, layers worn next to the skin need to be washed or replaced every 1-4 days, depending on many circumstances.  Ideally, I aim for three pairs of these garments; more if I expect also to wear a pair at night.  There are ways of managing with fewer if you need to - even one pair, if you assume washing them on a night in and using a duvet or two to keep warm in the meantime.  Turn pockets inside out for quicker line or rack-drying.  I can usually dry the synthetics in one night if well spread out, but this will depend on environment.  Colour coding sets of thermals, where more than one colour is available (having a light grey and a black set, for instance) may make handling the laundry easier. Middle layers, protected both from the skin and external sources of dirt, rarely need washing.  The coats - heated and down - are very difficult to wash and I am generally much more careful to keep them clean - I rarely eat without taking them off or at least opening the zips.  Fortunately the down shell is wipeable. Some wool is sold dry-clean only, though a lot can be washed in an ordinary machine on the delicates or wool cycle.  I have generally found thermal undergarments benefit from being washed as delicates (or with the wool on the wool setting).  Use soap or a wool-specific detergent.  I use soapnuts on everything except the down.  It works very well, except on some whites which tend to grey out after a while.  Most knitted garments should not be tumble dried: I know much less about this as I don't have a dryer, but always check the label. Static electricity: Unfortunately, this is an extremely complicated issue.  Static is created when two fabrics with different electrical properties rub against each other.  How much static is actually produced depends on all sorts of factors, including damp/dry air and how insulated you are from the ground. In everyday life, I've only had trouble with this in relation to skirts, though, e.g. loose trousers over tight leggings might feasibly also cause issues in some circumstances.  (If you work in a field which is static-sensitive, you almost certainly know more about this than I do, so I won't go there!). I am certain that a pure wool skirt is all right next to a pure cotton underskirt, and that a viscose and polyester 50% blend is all right with cotton.  I am also reasonably convinced that I have had bad problems with a high viscose content dress with pure polyester underthings (though I am less certain of the identity of the dress fabric than I would like to be). Considering this source on fabric properties this would suggest: Fabrics that are made of mixes should be fine in themselves, as the fibres do not rub together  much, but these fabrics may be difficult to judge with regard to good layering neighbours. Wool, nylon, viscose, and cotton, should be able to rub together without significant problem. Polyester, PVC, acrylic, polypropylene, acetate, and cotton should generally be all right together. Wool, nylon, and viscose, are not likely to be good things to wear next to polyester. I realise there are considerable gaps in this.  If anyone has any information to add, it would be appreciated! I have only ever once had significant problems with static, and that was the above-mentioned viscose against polyester. Show through: If you wear light coloured layers, darker coloured underlayers may show through.  This is most irritating with regard to white blouses.  If you want to wear white on top, look for white underlayers. I have occasionally altered white blouses with open necks by adding a popper to close the collar and cover what is underneath. Acquisition: The clothing as listed above, and assuming multiple pairs of any garment worn against the skin would probably cost in the region of four-five hundred pounds if brought new and even that is assuming that the skiing coats (easily the most expensive single items) can be brought on offer. It is possible to find a lot second-hand at what in the UK are called charity shops.  There is usually more than one in any town large enough to have multiple shops.  Anything with long sleeves or legs will add some warmth.  If you are travelling, note that the north of the UK is significantly colder than the south.  I found that charity shops on the Scottish border (and presumably, further into Scotland) had a lot of truly warm stuff which it is difficult to acquire further south. In general, if it can be afforded, I would recommend getting the thermal layers  new, and browsing charity shops and sales for things like jumpers.  However, creativity does work.  Pyjama trousers are surprisingly good as a random extra layer, and if under a pair of neat joggers - who is ever going to find out? Labels will usually show fabric composition.  Go for pure wool or high wool blends if possible.  Acrylic is good too; viscose and polyester can be effective and are often a lot softer.  Cotton is ok but not the best; there is a good reason it is used in summer garments.  I have no idea how the other synthetics rank for warmth. Outdoor shops usually have seasonal sales, and these often include some quite good coats, and may sometimes include things like skiing underlayers.  Army surplus can be rather random in what it stocks, but it is also good for ideas - it is how I found out about waterproof socks. Shooting often takes place in bad weather, and in general, I'd expect shooting supply sources to be expensive but seriously good quality.  I don't expect to need to replace my waterproof skirt in the next twenty years unless it gets caught on barbed wire or some such. I will give the specific source - where I know it - of the particular clothes I've photographed if anyone wants to message.  (I'm not affiliated with anyone and will gain nothing). If you do go to a high street store and buy a set of warm underthings, it may be worth going up a size after a couple of layers.  It tends to be more comfortable.  This is harder if buying piecemeal from second hand sources because different manufacturers are not necessarily consistent in their sizing: in that case, it's often necessary to work out which piece is larger or smaller as you go. Getting too hot: The hot-cold divide between inside and outside can be a potential problem, in that what is barely warm enough outside can be massively too hot inside.  Be cautious about layers that cannot be taken off in public if you are likely to spend any length of time in well heated rooms.  I have made this mistake.  It was not fun!  If you do get caught out with this, leggings (under a skirt) and sleeves can often be rolled up for a minor improvement. Irritation problems: Wool still seems to be the warmest ordinary fabric.  However, I cannot wear wool next to the skin without irritation, though I have no problems handling it.  I don't believe this is all that common, but it is something to be aware of.  I do not know if this problem applies to any other fabric.  Merino (a particular breed of sheep) or alpaca (the South American camelid) wool are said to be less inclined to cause irritation (but I have not run an experiment to check the truth of these claims)! Conclusion The famous English weather is never going to be defeated, but it can be endured in reasonable comfort.  And the flip side of it is that we have very little truly extreme weather, and plenty of precipitation so everything grows. 🙂 Cherry Foster Comment Like You can also reply to this email to leave a comment.

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