Where Sustainability Meets Quality. Peter Morrell tastes the latest wine from France's most prolific Rosé producing region
We are all familiar with a refreshing glass of Provence rosé and the beautiful lifestyle that goes along with it. But Vins de Provence is much more than a cool glass of pale rosé. With a history of producing rosé dating back to 600 BC, the winemakers of Provence are working hard to increase their sustainability credentials and combat climate change to ensure that you still have the highest-quality rosé in your glass produced through the most sustainable practices no matter the high temperatures and drought that may have occurred during the growing season.
In fact, Vins de Provence is striving for 100% of the vineyards to obtain an environmental accreditation by 2030, with 55% of the region already certified organic or HVE as of 2022.
Crisp, fresh and deliciously aromatic, with each appellation – Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence – providing a large diversity of terroirs and wines, Vins de Provence rosé is the perfect choice for the eco-conscious looking for the highest quality rosé, whatever the occasion.
A Region at The Forefront of The Ecological Transition
Winemakers and researchers work in harmony to share information and processes, helping them to produce the best rosé in the world and develop more environmentally friendly practices, ranging from agroforestry, encouraging biodiversity, living soil, biodynamics, organic and plant matter to water stress management and efforts to reduce carbon footprints.
In September 2021, Provence launched the first wine industry project 'EnviroProv' as part of the nationwide 'France Relance' effort to revitalise the French economy and speed up environmental, industrial and social change in France. Running until September 2023, the EnviroProv plan aims to structure the transition to agroecology within the Provence region.
Giving Back: Vins De Provence Contributes to The Eco-System
Agroforestry is a massively important part of sustainable viticulture, especially in terms giving back to the earth. There are agronomic strategies in place throughout many Vins de Provence vineyards aimed at sustainable soil management, such as the introduction of organic matter, such as plant or wildlife, to promote the presence of minerals. These practices are directed by the 'Living Soil' study group, which brings together over 40 companies with the common goal of improving practices and helping others implement them.
One strategy to improve soils is winter grassing on rows between the vines, which has increased substantially over the past few years.
In 2017, according to a survey carried out by the Syndicat des Vins Côtes de Provence, only 13% of farms were using winter grassing strategies on all rows, but by 2023, 57% of them were using natural or sown grass on their entire plot. This figure rises to 80% if including farms with grass in every other row. This increase can be explained by a more detailed knowledge of soil management using grassing strategies adapted to the Mediterranean climate.
Château Léoube (AOP Côtes de Provence), which is owned by Daylesford Organic, is just one example of a producer that has taken to caring for its soils. From pollinators and insects, wildflowers and herbs to orchards, vineyards and wetlands, Château Léoube encourages the wildlife around naturally growing plant life to thrive. The more diverse the animal and plant life within its vineyards, the better the health of the vines and grapes. Peter Morrell, Editor says "I first reviewed a wine from Château Léoube 10 years ago, it was good then, and subsequently their wines have got better and better over the last decade You can read my article here…"
Similarly, many winemakers are also adopting practices aimed at reinforcing natural and ancestral cycles, such as Château La Coste (AOP Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence), who are encouraging eco-pasturing: twice a year, the winery welcomes several hundred sheep to graze in the grounds, thus clearing the grass and naturally fertilising the soil.
Reducing Its Environmental Footprint
As part of its EnviProv programme, Vins de Provence has carried out a 360-degree diagnosis of the environmental impact of the sector. This includes an item-by-item assessment of the carbon emissions responsible for climate change, from the upstream production phase right through to the first commercial intermediary. A sample of around 30 companies representative of the Provençal vineyards was analysed, including private wineries, cooperative wineries and wine merchants, with or without environmental certification. This data was then presented to the entire sector in March 2023, giving a full explanation of the carbon footprint to the technicians and winegrowers of the region with recommendations for how to improve.
Energy savings, installation of renewable energy sources and even the introduction of animal-drawn systems for work in the vineyards or car-pooling to optimise employee travel are just some of the ways wineries are striving to give back to the environment.
Many estates have taken the issue of the environmental impact of their wine-growing activities head-on. Château des Annibals (AOP Coteaux Varois en Provence) is a certified organic winery powered by 100% renewable solar and wind energy. Owner and winemaker Nathalie Coquelle, has dedicated herself to sustainability and sources all dry goods from recycled materials. They also regularly control the oxygen levels in the tanks in order to use as few sulphites as possible during winemaking.
Moving Forward: Adapting to Climate Change
Looking forward, much like the rest of the Mediterranean region, Provence winemakers face particular challenges exacerbated by climate change, such as heat and water stress.
The Centre du Rosé, a research centre set up in 1999 at the initiative of winegrowers in Provence, brings together a dozen engineers, technicians and oenologists involved in research programmes on rosé wines, focusing in particular on the creation of grape varieties adapted to different environmental and climatic conditions.
This research has led to many new initiatives for the region, including the introduction of new grape varieties more resistant to heat and drought, such as Rousseli, Agiorgitiko, Calabrese, Moschofilero and Xinomavro. The group is also piloting an experimental plot in the commune of La Celle, with the aim of using pollination to give birth to new varieties that are resistant to mildew, can withstand drought and bud late to reduce the risk of frost in the spring.
Winemakers in Provence are also working hard to manage their water usage and develop new ways to improve water management, both to decrease the use of water and combat drought throughout the winemaking process. One such method used in many vineyards is using agroforestry, as trees develop deep root systems that are able to bring water up from the deep layers of the soil to the surface where it can be used by crops. The roots also help retain water in the field due to the structuring of the soil by the roots.
With all these in mind, Vins de Provence continues to lead through its expertise and experience in rosé production by developing all aspects of sustainability to combat climate change, ensuring that the world-renowned rosé we've grown to love is not only delicious, but also high-quality, sustainable and here for future generations to enjoy.
Peter Morrell comments "I've known Château La Coste, mentioned above, for a while. They collaborated with Soho House to create Lady A Rosé, a wine to celebrate the 40th birthday of socialite Markus Anderson. Not only was the wine exceptional but the bottle was elegantly stylish with a label designed by Damien Hirst. Read my review here...
"My most recent tasting from this Estate is the Château La Coste Vin de Provence Rosé 2022. The wine is made from a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah and pours a pale salmon pink colour. In the bouquet there are distinct floral and fruity aromas together with notes of aniseed and fresh herbs. On the palate peach, apple, and a pleasing assortment of fresh summer fruits develop. Good acidity makes the wine ideal to match with food. The finish has some buttery elements and is fresh and fruity.
"This is a lovely wine to drink on its own, and to pair with seafood and salads."
About Vins de Provence
With 90% of its production consisting of rosé, the Vins de Provence vineyard is the world's leading producer of rosé wines. Covering some 28,000 hectares of vineyards scattered across the foothills of the great Provencal massifs, such as Sainte-Victoire the Sainte-Baume, the Maures and the Estérel, it covers three protected designations of origin appellations d'origine (AOP): AOP Côtes de Provence, AOP Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence and AOP Coteaux Varois en Provence. It brings together 469 individual wine cellars, 53 cooperatives and 37 négociant-vinificateurs, selling between 160 and 170 million bottles a year, almost half of which are exported.
More information can be found at https://www.vinsdeprovence.com/en and on social media at @VinsdeProvenceUK on Instagram and Facebook and @vinsprovenceuk on Twitter.
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