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En Asie de l'ouest, le repas est un acte symbolique de confiance. Chez O Damas, en particulier. Adresse à découvrir pour faire tourner les plats !
C'est l'éternelle question : que reste-t-il quand on a tout perdu ? Des souvenirs ? Des récits ? Des photos de famille ? Sans doute, peut-être, des recettes. La cuisine est ce qui reste de la culture d'origine quand on pense avoir tout oublié.
Faites tourner les plats
Bienvenue chez Majd ! Des mets qui racontent l'enfance, l'exil bien sûr, mais aussi les racines toujours ancrées dans un bouquet d'herbes fraîches, un plat longuement mijoté, voire, à chacun ses madeleines, un p'tit gâteau au sirop de grenade.
O Damas, à La Hulpe. De l'authentique. Car si les snacks qui proposent des entrées - mezzés- chaudes et froides existent çà et là, la vraie cuisine syrienne, longue à préparer, se fait désirer. Ici c'est l'orient sans express : taboulé, baba ganoush, houmous, feuilles de vigne, brochettes, boulettes... On picore le froid et le chaud.
Itinéraire d'un pois chiche
Chez O Damas ! on retrouve à la fois des recettes simples, familiales et aussi des plats festifs pour recevoir. De toutes les suggestions, c'est le menu Découverte que je préfère (30 EUR, minimum deux couverts), parfait pour partager les plats, les faire tourner. En effet, pas de portion individuelle, mais des plats qui circulent. Soit l'essence des cultures méditerranéennes et de la culture syrienne. En Asie de l'ouest, le repas est un acte symbolique de confiance.
Bienvenue chez Majd ! Des mets qui racontent l'enfance, l'exil bien sûr, mais aussi les racines toujours ancrées dans un bouquet d'herbes fraîches
J'ai adoré les falafels, d'une légèreté et d'un croustillant rare. Mais, avant, le caviar d'aubergines fumées aux pépins de grenade. Le houmous, bien sûr ; itinéraire d'un pois chiche convoité par tous les pays de la région. Puis sont arrivées les grillades. Poulet, boeuf… Le chef travaille avec un four à charbon de bois. Le poulet est particulièrement moelleux, d'abord poché dans un bouillon de légumes avant d'être terminé au four. Superbe. Au dessert, baklawas aujourd'hui, mais c'est la glace maison à la pistache et à la fleur d'oranger découverte lors de mon premier passage qui m'a fait tanguer de plaisir.
Alain de Fooz
O Damas ! - rue des Combattants 77, 1310 La Hulpe. 0474/47.20.47. www.odamas.be
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